Speed Records and the Fifth Flatiron
April 18, 2002
Just like PRs in running there are PRs in speed climbing. The advantage of speed climbing is that the courses are always unique and no one can break the record in a different location. These records are not based upon a fixed distance like running records. This gives one a unique opportunity to not only set a PR, but to set an actual speed record, provided it is obscure enough and no else has tried it. This brings up another point, which must be made. All climbing speed records are really just the “fastest known time of the recorder.” Now running speed records are really the same thing, but it is very, very likely that they are also the fastest times every run.
I wasn’t aware of any time for a car-to-car ascent of the Fifth Flatiron and my goal was to establish one. Since the record for all five Flatirons is just over two hours car-to-car, I felt I had to go under an hour for this one or it would be a bit ridiculous. I’m also fully aware that there are probably 100 scramblers in Boulder who could beat my time, but that almost no one is interested in a speed record on the Fifth Flatiron. Bill Briggs, Buzz Burrell, and Dave Mackey in particular could crush my time. Okay, enough caveats.
I arrived at Chautauqua a little past 5 p.m. My trail running friends were congregating for the weekly run and I tried to talk a couple of the more adventurous into joining me for a scramble, but none were game. I wore my new SuperFly sticky rubber approach shoes and carried my MP3 player for company. I wore just running shorts and a short-sleeve shirt. Bill Briggs had shown me the hidden, rope-less descent off the Fifth so a harness and a rope weren’t necessary.
I jogged slowly up the Mesa trail to the Royal Arch trail. Slowly? You wonder why I’m going slowly if I’m out for a speed record. In this situation, “slow” is relative. I was going quite hard as far as my heart was concerned, but my pace up the steep trail was a very slow run.
I hit the Royal Arch junction in seven and a half minutes. Splits are very important in documenting speed records for two reasons. First, they lend credibility to the assertion, as there is usually no one around to verify the time. Some of the speed record times, like the Flatiron Quinfecta, are so amazing that they almost defy belief. Splits add some degree of believability to these achievements. Secondly, splits are useful for anyone trying to break the record, including myself. If I find myself ahead of the record, I’ll push hard to get it. If I find myself well back, I might shut it down a bit and go at a more casual pace.
As the trail became even steeper and rockier, I was forced into a power hike. When I got to Sentinel Pass (just over 19 minutes), I noticed a storm moving in. The skis were dark and the winds strong. Something was coming quickly and I couldn’t help thinking I could get “Bubbed [1] ” out here. When I got to the Royal Arch (I elected to climb the very easy and very high quality South Side of the East Face), I almost traded the Fifth Flatiron for a speed ascent of the Royal Arch (only a hundred feet or so with a 3rd class descent), but continued up to the base of the route. Planning on keeping a close eye on the weather, I headed up. At the first sign of moisture, I’d descend.
The impending storm provided some extra motivation to move quickly. The high winds were a bit scary and I was getting a little cold as I raced up the edge of the Flatiron. The rock here is so well featured and so fun to climb. I think this route is comparable to the ultra-classic East Face of the Third. The climbing is very easy. I’d say 5.3 at the hardest, but most of it seems 4th class, albeit with death fall potential for a soloist.
I was surprised and glad to reach the summit in only 6.5 minutes of high-speed scrambling. I think this route is normally four or five pitches. I just tagged the big rappel bolt on top and immediately downclimbed carefully as the winds tired to knock me off. I won’t go into the secret descent details because, well, they are secret. Though I’d be willing to show them to anyone.
I was back on the ground in less than four minutes and scrambling down the steep descent on the south side of the rock. Back at the trail, I noticed that I could break the required hour mark if I hustled. No moisture had yet to fall, but it continued to look nasty and the winds were strong. I motored down the trail and back to Chautauqua in a respectable time of 56:46.
Is this silly? Of course! That’s part of the fun. Heck, it sure beat just going for a trail run. I got in a better workout, had a great scramble, admittedly far too short, and had some excitement – a perfect afternoon outing.
