A Review of:

DAN HOWITT'S MT. RAINIER SPEED RECORD CLAIM
October 26, 2002

Original announcement of the record claim, as made by Mike Gauthier (based upon phone conversation with Dan Howitt, just following his ascent) on the website cascaceclimbers.com:

"For those interested in fitness achievements, here is a gem!

Chad Kellogg's round trip speed ascent record of 5 hours 6 minutes was shattered last week by Dan Howitt of Portland Oregon. Dan set out last Saturday to set a new speed record on Rainier and took along some friends and a GPS for verification. Dan traveled from Paradise to Columbia Crest and back to Paradise in 3 hour 56 minutes and 17 seconds. That's right folks, UNDER 4 HOURS!!!!

Dan felt that he needed to verify his one way speed ascent from a few weeks ago. This time however, he wanted to do it round trip and eliminate some of the criticism. He also took along a GPS that timed and tracked his entire ascent. In addition, he had a person remain at the Paradise parking lot with a stopwatch and 2 friends pre-positioned on the summit to verify that he made the top.
Hats off to you Dan. GOOD JOB!"

This statement has been on the internet since late October 2002, and has not been disputed by Howitt, or any of his friends or "supporters."

It should be noted that Mike Gauthier DID NOT verify or support Howitt's claim when posting this statement. He was only passing on "news," as it was reported and requested by Howitt.

Evidence that Suggests Dan Howitt did NOT Climb Rainier

GPS map submitted to Mike Gauthier by Howitt, with Howitt's writing, notes and signature on it.

Map 1 (Start of series)
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3747howitt-lower-mtn-med.jpg]Click Here for Howitt's Lower Mtn GPS Map[/url]

Map 8 (End of series)
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3747howitt-upper-mtn-med.jpg]Click Here for Howitt's Upper Mtn GPS Map[/url]

(If the links don't work, copy and past into your browser)

(The connecting maps between the two starting and ending maps are generally not questioned.)

Photos to follow finding.

The Ascent:

The map does not come close to representing the actual route which was climbed above Disappointment Cleaver during the summer and autumn of 2002. The first gross error in Howitt's GPS documentation, is the missing traverse around to the south, around 13,000' to 13,500', which was taken by most all climbers of that route in 2002. The traverse started above the Cleaver, and traversed south, across the top of the Nisqually Glacier. Once the traverse was made, a series of short switchbacks took climbers to a southerly part on the crater rim. Almost any climber, guided or unguided, who climbed Mt. Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver route from around mid-June 2002 forward, can confirm this.

When reviewing the Howitt's track up the Cleaver, experienced Mt. Rainier climbers will note some missing switchbacks. During late season, when it is little or no snow, it is very difficult, if not impossible to travel up the first third of the Cleaver in a direct fashion. There are rock cliffs and a high potential for rock fall. Again, any climber who has climbed the lower part of the Cleaver in late season can confirm this.

Above the Cleaver: In Mr. Howitt's climb description, he says he "took a more direct route to High Break," and implies he cut some switch backs, to make the ascent shorter (i.e., 40% grade with the direct route, vs. 30%). His map shoes this as the direct line, headed straight up from the top of the Cleaver, to the east side of the crater rim.

Any climber who's climbed Mt. Rainier up the Disappointment Cleaver route knows it's about impossible to ascent nearly in a straight up from the top of Disappointment Cleaver toward the crater rim-especially at the end of October, when the crevasses are exaggerated, wide, and often unnavigational in that area during late season.

"High Break," which is noted in Howitt's statement, is generally known as a resting area for climbers around 13,200' to 13,500', and this break area, which in 2003, was somewhat above Gibraltar Rock, is not located anywhere along Howitt's ascent or descent routes-which are marked on the GPS map.

As the photos show, the glacier was covered in many places with penitentes, and it would have been an uphill struggle to weave around them in order to make FAST progress using any kind of shortcut. Howitt's account makes no mention of the ice towers whatsoever, or of the conditions in general. Furthermore, the actual trail provided the easiest route of travel with least resistance at the time of Howitt's claimed ascent-which is contrary to what Howitt describes when he mentions cutting switchbacks.

After close inspection of the map, it can be seen that the route across the summit crater is direct and straight as an arrow, from the east side of the crater to the Columbia Crest, the highest point of the mountain (14,411'). In actuality, the route meanders across the crater, as the photo shows. Please note a direct route would also take the climber through, up and over a nearly vertical rock cliff band...on the ascent and descent. Typically, the route cuts across the crater from a southern point on the rim towards the summit register, then runs the crater rim toward the south-west to the highest point.

It is also possible to cut from the south or east side of the crater, directly towards the summit, but this route takes one a little south of the highest point, and it's necessary to walk the crater rim to the north to reach the highest point. The map does not show any traversing along the crater rim to the summit, either south to north, or north to south. Most all climbers who have crossed the crater to Columbia Crest, will note there is some kind of a short traverse in one direction or the other-in order to reach the highest point on the mountain.

Lastly, in regards to ascent, the map shows the route ascending up the Ingraham Glacier to the east side of the east crater. The actual route taken by most all climbers of the Disappointment Cleaver route in 2002 approached the crater from a very southerly position, about 50 yards to the west of "Guide Rock." An easy snow ramp takes one from there, into the crater from the glacier. Howitt's map shows the route ascending to the crater to the north of Guide Rock, which implies he took a route which was different than the standard route climbed by RMI and most Disappointment Cleaver climbers.

The Descent:

The second largest gross error shown in the GPS map, is Howitt's descent track (the zigzag on the map, from the crater, to the top of Disappointment Cleaver). The route shown was not the one most all climbers took up the glacier, from the top of the Cleaver to the crater rim. Furthermore, the route show is FAR FROM the actual route, which as mentioned above, is far to the left on the map (several hundreds of yards). Notice the descent route makes nicely carved turns; in reality, the up Mt. Rainer rarely makes such nicely executed corners.

On the descent down the Cleaver, notice the lack of switchbacks in any of the route lines. Howitt notes in his statement that he took switchbacks down the cleaver, but the GPS track doesn't support this for either the up or down tracks.

In Howitt's description, he notes his time down the Cleaver was 5 minutes and 3 seconds. The Cleaver, as can be seen in the photos at that time of the year offers some tough terrain with doesn't lead to quick navigation. The lower third was rock, and somewhat disorienting for someone who's not been on the Cleaver much-especially when moving fast. The GPS map shows a direct route down the Cleaver...which is again, a dangerous and steep, nearly vertical cliffy area. A descent time down the cleaver under such conditions in five minutes, even using the switchback is questionable. We have witnesses who have seen Howitt on Mt. Hood on the standard route, and have noted his inability to quickly negotiate the steep terrain above the Hog's Back on descent , so his claim to descend the Cleaver in 5 minutes seems improbable.

GPS Notes

For those that have used GPS devices and mapping programs, these gross kinds of errors do not usually occur. Furthermore, quite often times, there are "skips" in the data due to lost satellite connections. None of Howitt's maps show skips of any kind.

Howitt's One-way Speed Record Ascent-Early October 2002.

Since there are extreme gross errors in the map of Howitt's October 26, 2002 claimed Mt. Rainier ascent, we speculate Mr. Howitt did not make his one-way record climb of Mt. Rainier as claimed in early October 2002. If Howitt had made the early October ascent, we believe his October 26, 2002 map would have been more accurate.

At very least, Mr. Howitt would have made comments on the map about the map's gross errors, pointing out many of the errors that were noted above. Instead, he states the GPS map and device to be reasonably accurate, to within a number of feet.

Howitt's use of avatars and personalities

There is a lot of speculation that Howitt is using avatars, aliases, and made up "personalities" to bolster, support, and promote his speed claims on Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier, and Aconcagua. Some of these aliases have also written complaint letters and letters of concern to various people and organizations, or contacted other people to promote, pump up, or defend Howitt.

It is documented that Howitt has used a number of avatars/aliases/personalities, including: JG/SEA, Pierce Stuggart, Peter Alexander, Jen Garner, Ian Pennington, and Dan Howitt in the cascaceclimbers.com, and made posts under those avatars to the website.

It can be shown that all of these individuals/avatars either posted from, or registered from, the same computers when making posts on the cascadeclimbers.com website.

When Jon, one of the owners of cascadeclimbers.com, confronted Howitt with this fact, Howitt wrote in an email to Jon that EACH of these people, at one time or another, had been at Dan's home or worked on his other computers-and used his computers to make the posts. Please note that Jen Garner is a famous actress.

Other communications made by Howitt's suspected aliases include:

Pierce Stuggart wrote an email to KGW TV (Portland television station), promoting Howitt's achievements, in an effort to secure an interview for Howitt.

Jen Garner emailed Dr. Steve Boyer, of Portland, Oregon, soliciting information from him about Boyer's Mt. Hood records (the previous Mt. Hood record holder). Boyer emailed Garner a number of details, which subsequently ended up in an email written by Pierce and Susan Stuggart, to Bob McGowan, section chairman of the Oregon American Alpine Club. The Stuggart's complained to McGowen about Boyer, and the accuracy of Boyer's Mt. Hood speed ascents-and that Boyer should be more truthful in the presentation of his records.

The above series of emails can tie together the use of Howitt's aliases outside of the cascadeclimbers.com website, which can imply that one person, or a number of people, are working together.

(Note: Dr. Boyer is a respected member of the climbing community, and has climbed in the northwest for over twenty years, including several expeditions to K2, Everest, and in 1988, he reached Annapurna's 26,539' summit via the South Face.)

Pierce Stuggart wrote Boyer on one occasion in 2003, and asked for Boyer's impression of Howitt during their January 2003 Aconcagua expedition (Boyer was Howitt's partner). In that email, Boyer shared several thoughts to Pierce about Howitt's performance, and cast some doubt about Howitt's Aconcagua claim. Subsequently, information was used from Boyer's email to Pierce by a poster called "Kelly," to update the 7summits.com website. Kelly noted Howitt's Aconcagua ascent time was 3:26, and not 3:22 as Pierce had earlier reported (Boyer had pointed this discrepancy out to Pierce in his email).

Although Pierce and Susan Stuggart, and JG/SEA have been strong Howitt advocates, they will not come forward to meet with anyone to clarify identities, as has been suggested.

Things that we do know about the commonality of Howitt, Alexander, Pierce, and JG/SEA:

1. There is a striking similarity between their posts and statements on cascadeclimbers.com. and in their statements and other posts across the internet (i.e., 7summits.com, for instance).

2. They have not come forward, or posted any photos to document their personal/mountaineering history together, defining their relationship to one another.

3. Cascadeclimbers.com administration has documentation that JG/SEA, Pierce & Susan Stuggart, Peter Alexander, Jen Garner, Ian Pennington, and Dan Howitt were posting from the same computers.

Noting the above, one might be able to assume these characters are one in the same person.

Howitt's Mt. Rainier Witnesses

We confirm the statements of McKinnon and Radcliff, which are posted in text on this thread in cascadeclimbers.com, corresponds to the faxed original statements received by a number of climbers in the community.

Howitt first claimed to climb Mt. Rainier on a one-way speed ascent in early October 2002. Several people suspected his climb then, and Howitt returned with witnesses in tow to record departure time, summit time, and return time of his new effort-all in preparation to rebuke any efforts to challenge his record.

The witnesses of the round-trip speed record claim, made notarized statements, which support Dan's climb, and they were subsequently posted on this thread.

There is speculation that the three witnesses made the statements, but did not actually observe Howitt's event.

The witnesses refuse to meet with anyone to discuss Howitt's ascent. Efforts to meet with Howitt and his witnesses have been ongoing for months, and Peter Alexander has written to Mike Gauthier and posted on cascadeclimbers.com, that he and the other witnesses do not have time to meet. There is a group of people who would like to meet Howitt and his witnesses, to help Howitt verify his ascent.

Other than noting their "wrist watches" and the timing of Howitt's event, the witnesses could not provide any additional documentation, such as photographs, and admitted they did not sign the summit register. Their goal from the onset, according to JG/SEA on October 13, 2002, was to verify Howitt's next climb, so the veracity of the ascent would not be questioned.

In JG/SEA's October 13, 2002 cascadeclimbers.com post, where JG/SEA is telling the audience how Howitt planed to further authenticate Howitt's next climb, he states, "As he walks back, Dan will drop a card in the summit-register with his signature, and the two other people's signatures,..." The accomplishment of this goal was not mentioned in Howitt's round trip speed record claim statement, nor did any of the witnesses mention it. We can assume this intention was never followed through by Howitt or his witnesses.

Howitt admits in emails and communication to a number of people, the witnesses did not register with the Mt. Rainier National Park Service prior to their ascent, as required.

Two of the witness statements (McKinnon & Radcliff) were faxed to Matt Samet. McKinnon and Radcliff's statements were posted on the net by Alexander.

Peter Alexander's statement was posted on cascadeclimbers.com website afterwards, and Alexander alludes to the fact that it was sent to Matt Samet. Samet confirms Alexander's notarized statement has not been received by fax.

Samet also confirms he has not received any "original" statements by any of the witnesses through the US mail, as of April 28, 2003.

Overall, there was a significant lack of accurate physical descriptions by the witnesses, up the Disappointment Cleaver, or above the Cleaver, on the glacier.

Peter Alexander Comments

Alexander says in his notarized statement, "Made for decent traction with hiking shoes."

If the witnesses climbed Mt. Rainier as stated, they did not register, and the climb was made in late October with no other parties on the mountain. From this, it could be assumed they were very experienced (since they didn't care if Mt. Rainier National Park service knew they were on the mountain, for safety purposes). We find it unusual that experienced climbers would use the term "hiking shoes" in this statement, for a late season climb when boots would likely have been the most appropriate term and/or footwear.

For the upper mountain description by Alexander, he states, "Upper Ingraham in great shape, pretty firm in early a.m., good remaining boot path outline, some icy stretches, some small parts of trail angled off with crusty deposits easily crunched through."

There is an incredible lack of details about the actual conditions, in regards to the penitentes, and the other route conditions. Most experienced climbers who made late season ascents of Mt. Rainier in 2002, commented how long and citreous the route was.

In regards to the summit, Alexander states, "Crater trail smoother, some blue ice sheets over crust layers nearby,..." As the photos show the crater area, the trail was a deep groove on August 31, 2002, and had penitentes on both sides-and it was extremely rutted. We have not be able to confirm there were "blue ice sheets" as described in Alexander's statement.

In regards to Alexander's statement, he says, "...picked up left gear by Dan: poles and hydration pack at summit, track spikes at east crater rim, ice axe at Muir, crampons at Pebble Creek.." This is in contrast to Howitt's statement, where he says, "Received no gear or supply support anywhere."

Snowfall

There were insignificant amounts of snow between when the pictures for this finding were taken on August 31, 2002, and October 26, 2002, the day of Mr. Howitt's climb. RMI guides confirm there was no significant snowfalls that filled or covered the penitentes, as last as October 11, 2002. Independent climbers confirm the same.

In fact, Alexander confirms in there was little if any new snow in his statement, "Route was very good -- very very icy and fast -- block ice." As a group of climbers reviewing this statement, we can never remember referring to ice on Mt. Rainier, or on any mountain, in this fashion, as if we were talking about a ice stored in a "freezer."

The weather conditions on the mountain September through October were mostly dry, which was the prevailing regional weather pattern for the area during autumn 2002. Penitentes in a number of places were observable on the mountain for many weeks, and were encountered by a many parties, both guided and unguided.

The Ladder Issue-Where did they come from?

Howitt admits in his statement that his witnesses, McKinnon and Alexander, took/borrowed RMI's ladders to bridge the crevasses on the route.

The witness accounts did not explain where the ladders came from, how and where they had been placed, or how and when they were returned.

There were significant crevasse crossings below the Cleaver, which required one ladder.

The stowed ladder, that was used at the top of the Ingraham Flats, was secured at Camp Muir, all tied in with ropes, and anchored with rocks. It would have taken a lot of effort to unlash the ladder, and then haul it up to Ingraham Flats.

Placing a ladder for RMI is "a project" for a small team of guides, and since RMI hadn't climbed the mountain since October 10, there was likely a lot of work to get the ladder safely set (the edges of crevasses melt away, and the platform which ladders rests on need to be chopped out so the ladder is stable enough to stand and walk on).

Through the cascadeclimbers.com website, it was requested by Howitt to provide the details where the ladders came from, and how they were placed. Neither he nor the witnesses would respond. The details of the ladders were also missing in the statements from the witnesses.

The stowed ladder above the Cleaver was secured by ropes, and buried with rocks, on the North side of Disappointment Cleaver, near the top. In order to use the ladder, it would have taken great effort to unsecure the ladder, and then carry it up for placement.

In addition to the special effort to unsecure, then carry, then set the ladder on the Flats, it would have been necessary to unset the ladders after Howitt and the witnesses crossed it for the last time, and then carry it back down to Camp Muir. It would then be necessary to retie and rock the ladders at Muir-so they didn't get blown away in a storm.

Any ladders used above Disappointment Cleaver would need to have been returned, tied and "rocked" for security from the wind.

As a note here, neither Alexander, McKinnon nor Howitt asked or were given permission to use any RMI ladders on the mountain.

To the best of our knowledge, the ladders at Camp Muir and on top of Disappointment Cleaver have not been molested since they were secured and stowed for the season by RMI guides.

Ladder in Use

In Howitt's or the witness accounts, we didn't hear about the actual placement of the ladders. RMI usually uses heavy wood on the ladders, which usually takes several people to carry. If the witness had carried up the ladders, it is unlikely they would have been able to carry up the heavy wood and rope necessary to secure the ladder like RMI does.

Instead, if the ladders were used by Howitt's party as claimed, they would have likely carried them up without the wood. Alexander notes his team camped on the Flats, which implies they carried heavy packs to the 11,000' camp. It's doubtful they would have been able to carry the ladder up from Camp Muir with their own equipment, since the ladder is an awkward load by itself. This could imply that Alexander and McKinnon retuned to Camp Muir to fetch the ladder, to be placed above the Flats. Perhaps they could have carried their personal loads down to Camp Muir with the ladder, but it's doubtful. There is no mention in their statements how they dealt with this situation, and Howitt makes no mention of it either.

Once the ladder was in place above the Flats, it would have been necessary to cross the ladders without wood, which is difficult without a "handrail" or safety line. We did not hear how the witnesses protected the climbers who crossed ladders without the wood, which for many climbers, crossing a ladder without wood and is a frightening experience the first time across-especially without a safety line or any other kind of protection. Many Mt. Everest climbers, whom have climbed the Khumbu Glacier, will confirm their first ladder crossing was fun...but somewhat tricky.

Mr. Howitt's description of his climb does not mention the crossing of any ladders, or what it was like to cross the ladder with TRACK SHOES on, while moving across the slick aluminum ladders with or without a handrail for safety.

Howitt did not contrast what it was like to cross the wood-covered ladders on his earlier October one-way record ascent-with his later ascent, when the ladders were only exposed aluminum rungs (with no wood). It seems this would be an interesting if not significant point, since the ladders had been pulled down after RMI's last climb on October 10, 2002.

This description of crossing the ladder is mysteriously missing from Howitt's one-way record account, too.

Mr. Howitt's account does not mention the extra care it would have taken to cross such ladders-especially while wearing only TRACK SHOES on his ascent, or on the descent with crampons. This issue would have caused delays of some seconds or minutes, especially if exhausted, and it surely would have deserved comment based upon the minutia noted throughout Mr. Howitt's account.

Breaking Laws

It is a federal crime in Mt. Rainier National Park to take/borrow anything that does not belong to a person, or if that person "borrows" it without permission. Howitt admitted his witnesses borrowed the ladders for the use of his climb. The same would go for the ladders that were left on the top of Disappointment; they were "borrowed," then returned.

Furthermore, the witness also broke Federal Law when they did not register for their ascent. Since they did not register, there is also no record of their climb with the Mt. Rainier National Park Service.

Witness Payment for Exchange of Service

In emails exchanged between Howitt and those trying to document/validate Howitt's ascent, the witnesses and Howitt admitted that the witnesses had been well paid and had received "gear" by Howitt in return for "timing" his round-trip speed record claim.

We find it a little unusual that the witnesses were willing to validate Howitt's new ascent, get paid monetarily and with gear for their simple efforts, and then break federal law on two different occasions for his benefit. Why would they be willing to do this, or not comply with the law if their intention from the onset was to "properly document Mr. Howitt's achievement?"

It is also interesting to note that even though the witnesses admitted to getting paid, they did not have time to meet in person, with people who were trying to help Howitt validate his claim.

Route Conditions

Photos with this review will show throughout the trip up the Cleaver, and above the Cleaver-the route was likely riddled in places with high penitentis. These ice towers would have made it difficult, if not impossible to shortcut the switchbacks on the way up, as noted in Howitt's GSP map (not to mention crevasse issues, and the need to skirt them far to the right or to the left).

There is a contradiction in Howitt's account, vs. the actual conditions that were present during the time of his claimed ascent. There were only a few long exposed slopes where a sliding fall was an issue, due to safety provided by penitentes and the nature of the route. Howitt states in his account, "Route was very good -- very very icy and fast -- block ice. Had axe point sharpened for immediate self-arrest if needed -- very very dangerous if had to slide and then arrest -- maybe not possible. I knew of this risk going in." Howitt focuses a lot of his upper mountain description around this aspect. In reality, at the time of his climb, there were few sections where falling or sliding would have been an issue.

Route Finding on Mt. Rainier in late Autumn

In regards to route finding, there were no notes of interest mentioned in Howitt, Alexander, or McKinnon's accounts. Since RMI had not maintained the route for a couple of weeks prior to Howitt's ascent, it can be assumed the route changed here and there-meaning, crevasses opened where they had not been on the route before, and such changes would need to be negotiated by the witnesses and Howitt. Howitt, Alexander, or McKinnon did not mention how or where the route changes had been done, marked, or communicated to Howitt to keep his speed ascent rolling along-without any delay, whatsoever. It should be noted here, that a pace of 3:56 round trip up Mt. Rainier required "everything to be in place," so quick progress can be made-without any delays.

RMI changes the route daily due to the glacier movements, and it was likely some route changes would have been necessary-and somehow communicated to Howitt in order for him to continue his ascent rate...without missing stride. There was no mention of this in any statements.

It's probably also worth mentioning, that a late season ascent of Rainier by any route, when there are not many people, can be argued as a more challenging ascent as compared to let's say a mid-July ascent, since it requires more mountaineering skills and/or judgment (because no-one else is around to assist, in case of trouble or accidents, etc). Any aspects related to being "on the mountain alone" and the extra responsibility of forging the route were absent from Alexander's or McKinnon's statements.

Other "interesting" bits of evidence:

No one from the Portland climbing community, who might be willing to meet with Mike Gauthier or a cascadeclimbers.com moderators-has stepped forward to vouch for Howitt in a mountaineering context.

Howitt claims to have climbed Mt. Hood in record time, and he uses Boyer as his "verifier." Boyer acknowledges that he DID NOT verify Howitt's Hood climb, and it's known that Howitt has used Boyer's name as "proof" when talking with different people about Mt. Hood. JG/SEA used Boyer's name to verify Howitt's ascent when he posted on cascadeclimbers.com on October 13, 2002. This is very much like what Howitt did, when he used Gauthier's name, as it related to the Mt. Rainier record claim.

Since Howitt made his record claim on Mt. Hood, he has made other record claims on Mt. Adams and Aconcagua, in Argentina (see text of cascadeclimbers.com for details of his 3:26 ascent of Aconcagua).

Boyer has great doubts Howitt climbed Aconcagua as claimed (Boyer was Howitt's partner on that expedition). Boyer will also confirm that Howitt admitted he has never bought or used a sleeping bag or tent, prior to their climb on Aconcagua in January 2003.

Mr. Howitt has never provided evidence of any of his speed efforts (photos, partners, etc), and has not had any credible witnesses arranged to record his times, and comings and goings. No one can personally vouch for his speed abilities.

The cascadeclimber.com avatar JG/SEA has not been able to produce an early Mt. Rainier summit photo of Howitt and JG/SEA on the summit, which he says they climbed Mt. Rainier together. JG/SEA also alludes to the idea that he's climbed Mt. McKinley. There are no photos that or other documentation to support this.

Attempted efforts were made to come to a "solution" with Howitt

It should be noted that cascadeclimbers.com attempted to work with Mr. Howitt, with the goal to find a solution and bring this whole thing to a close, and preserve as many of his claims on other mountains as possible for him. At the time, there was interest in proving the Mt. Rainier speed record claim by Howitt was suspect, and there was not much interest to investigate the other records.

During this process, Howitt capitulated on his Rainier round-trip record at one point, and volunteered to write apology notes to internet websites and magazines that gave coverage to him...leaving a belief that Howitt would entirely abandon/renounce his Mt. Rainier round trip claim. At this point he also abandoned the use his own witness statements, since it had been shown to Howitt that several of his "personalities," such as JG/SEA, Peter Alexander, and Jen Garner had posted to cascaceclimbers.com from his computers.

The effort to negotiate with Howitt was a sincere opportunity to find a solution. However, shortly thereafter, Howitt floated a proposal where he wanted to now claim an "undocumented" or unverified round trip speed record on Mt. Rainier (leaving the witnesses out of the equation). He admitted this was so he could preserve his Rainier record at some level, in case his potential sponsors, as Howitt put it, "asked him about the Rainier round trip speed record."

Since it's not a good idea to negotiate for someone else, it was decided that such a negotiation would not be positive for anyone. Howitt's email made it obvious that he was not willing to easily let go of his claim, so it was further decided to break off all negotiations or dialog with Mr. Howitt.

Finding

As an informal body of local experienced climbers, we do not believe Mr. Dan Howitt climbed Mt. Rainier on October 26, 2002, and do not believe he made a speed ascent of the mountain on that day.

We are concerned to the length at which Mr. Howitt appeared to substantiate his claims on Mt. Rainier with the use of avatars and "personalities," but we are not willing to make any comment on this, beyond that what is noted in this statement.

Our finding represents our personal findings, based upon information provided us in written or photographic forms, and of personal experiences on Mt. Rainier's Disappointment Cleaver Route, around the date of when Mr. Howitt made his claimed ascents.

Based upon our research, we also do not believe Mr. Howitt made his one-way ascent of Mt. Rainier in early October 2002.

We are not making further comments about Mr. Howitt's other speed ascents on Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, or Aconcagua, in Argentina.

We leave the local mountaineering community to make its judgment of Mr. Howitt's Mt. Rainier speed records claims, which comes down to each person and their interpretation of the presented information, and other information each person may have collected in their own research. Our finding can certainly be questioned, and we are not interested in arguing the point beyond the presentation of this finding.

Until otherwise brought to the public's attention, we believe Mr. Chad Kellogg retains the round-trip speed record on Mt. Rainier.
===

Copyright © 2003 Jason Edwards. No use of this text, photos, or story is authorized in whole or part, without the expressed written consent of the author. This information here was presented by the author, with assistance and information provided by a number of different northwest mountain climbers and sources. All photos presented in this statement were taken on August 31, 2002.

Photos to follow within one day.

END