Speed Climbing News

News about new speed climbing records, including technical climbing, cycling, and trail running

Name: Bill Wright

Tuesday, May 17, 2005

New Hallucinogen Wall Record!

Inspired by the recent one-day ascent by Doak and Griebel, Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden returned to the route they nearly freed last year and crushed the previous record of 23h39m. Doing the route in three blocks with Ogden taking the middle block of pitches 8 through 14, the pair topped out in 8h59m! They free climbed lots of the aid climbing that Doak did. This continues a trend prevalent in Yosemite Valley: climbers who have freed or nearly freed the route, also have the speed records on the routes. Some Yosemite examples of this are:

Washington Column: Matt Wilder - only one to free route
Lurking Fear: Yuji
Salathe: Herson
Zodiac: Hubers
Leaning Tower: Houlding

More information on Nelson and Ogden's ascent can be found here: Climbing magazine news.

Wednesday, May 04, 2005

Zoroaster/Brahma in 18 hours - So. Rim to So. Rim

A team of four (Buzz Burrell, Stefan Griebel, John Prater, and Bill Wright) from Boulder, Colorado's SMSC (Satan's Minions Scrambling Club) climbed Zoroaster (5 pitches, 5.9) and Brahma Temples (4th class) in the Grand Canyon in 18h09m south rim to south rim. The roundtrip involves 30+ miles of hiking (10 miles off trail) and 11,000 vertical feet of hiking, scrambling, and climbing. A full report is located here:

Zoroaster and Brahma Temples, Trip Report